A
friend took a few of us on a road trip to Donaldsonville last week.
Population
about 6000. Former state capitol (for
three years). Home to
the first black mayor
(Pierre Caliste Landry) and not a few rootsy
musicians.
We
visited an old schoolhouse (not realizing, duh, we needed to make a
reservation for the full tour of the River
Road African American
museum), and learned
about the Sears Roebuck/Julius Rosenwald /Booker T. Washington
partnership that led to the construction of schools.
Out
back of the school was a well-tended garden. A little girl, eight or
nine, rode up on her bike and hopped off to give us the skinny on the
garden, pointing out pepper plants, watermelon vines, and where the
chickens used to live. Her name was Dallas, or Shalay, and she had
three siblings or two, depending on which version of her fanciful
tales you believed. We left her at the corner, worried she’d wander
off with out-of-town strangers, and she called after us with a twinkle, I
have one more surprise for you. That garden? It’s mine!
We
lunched at the Grapevine; I dined on crispy fried green tomatoes, mashed
potatoes, and tart, cheese-cakey lemon icebox pie.
After
a hot, sweaty walk by the river and a stop at an immaculately sorted
grocery store for water, we headed home, with one pitstop for
roadside peaches and creole tomatoes, and nostalgic candy at Cajun
Village.